Post a pic of your pad!!!

devosbi · Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:31 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the positive feedback, its getting there slowly, im screwing MDF rails to the base which takes ages (im also using liquid nails to keep them there

) Once thats done, im going to recut the arrows so they fit (bit of sanding), then make the sensors which is pretty straight forward. I have made sure there is a 10mm gap in there for my sensor, which is 7mm thick, but luckily, the thickness of the bracket is 3mm so it sits a tiny bit underneath the metal panels, then i can put the arrows on and do some testing.
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Bag makes my eyes feel like hurting

*cries*
MAX 300 Super STFU Mix

maxx freak · Trick Member Joined: 09 Aug 2005

Szalkow · Trick Member Joined: 09 May 2008

SML2.THV · Trick Member Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ

Szalkow is mostly right, I used base flanges, but then I just stuck two sticks of wood into them, and slapped on the bar from my old TX-whatever XD. It would be easy to tell if I didn't have the towel over the bar, since there's a black grip on the bar. But piping will work just as well. Oh, and maxx freak, you don't have to take off the back plate, I just did so it doesn't hurt the pad cosmetically if I decide to sell it.

EDIT: There is a video on my YouTube account where i go slightly into detail if anyone wants to see how it's actually set up.
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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

i just had an idea for adding the bar to the BS..

basically, take off the back panel like he did, attach the flanges..here's where it's different:
drill the holes bigger on the back panel so the bar and flange will fit through it. *shrug* sounds easy, but i'm it wouldnt be if anyone tried

but yeah, i have a TX style pad i just fixed up for a guy, i'll get some pix of that later
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SML2.THV · Trick Member Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ

Slvershdw, that's a really good idea. My dad and I thought of it, but I talked him into doing something simpler

. Just to clarify, do you mean so that only the narrow parts of the flanges are visible, and when you flip the pad over, the wider parts are visible? (Sorry to put it in such simple terms, I just wanna be clear

)
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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

like, the flanges are completely hidden. you cut the wood from the back panel out so the flanges go inside it.

hopefully thats clear enough

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SML2.THV · Trick Member Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ

Ah I see it now. Seriously though, that's a good idea, since it would eliminate the need for adjusting height and you could just build a bar according to the bar dimensions on a DDR machine, or whatever.

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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

alright, forgot to get pics before i gave the pad to the other guy, but here is a pic of it in action!

i have no idea who took it, but yeah.
all i did was cut new lexan panels and print new graphics.
what does everyone think of the ITG arrows with white background?

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Daniel · Trick Member Joined: 29 Aug 2002 Location: Sonoma, CA

Where was this?

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

that was sunday the 10th, san antonio texas, during san japan. (anime convention explains the chii ears and the hair)
PS, they had smile.dk live for a concert, and it actually was VERY good.

why do you ask?
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SuPeRwAcKgEe · Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:30 pm Post subject:

Oh hay.
Modded soft pad.
I've AAA'd a bunch of DDR 9s like Cartoon Heroes -Heavy- and Xepher -Heavy- on it.
I've passed all of the ITG 12s on it too.
It's an awesome pad, I just wish it had brackets so I could stream better.
The chair is wrapped in a sweatshirt so I don't slip.

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Machine tags:
ITG:JSTR DDR:JESTER

j1ng · Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:05 pm Post subject:

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My SM Machine|Thread of the year winnar.

SuPeRwAcKgEe · Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:42 am Post subject:

j1ng · Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:49 pm Post subject:

It feels as solid as arcade pads. and just as sensitive.
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belink · Trick Member Joined: 12 Aug 2007

I sooooooo badly wish they did Nexens in Europe. The Blueshark 2" with no bar costs 299 EUR (not even including shipping) which is wayyyy too much..

maxx freak · Trick Member Joined: 09 Aug 2005

j1ng · Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 6:42 pm Post subject:

there not raised just the back and center.
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Silenkiller · Basic Member Joined: 29 Jul 2007

check it, finished it like a year ago, still working

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Bought twenty 2x4's, eighteen 2x6's, 25' of steel bracing, and six 8'x4'x1/2" plywood panels. I got 4/4 bases, 4.5/4 wiring layers, 4/4 back panels, and 21/36 panels cut today; going to hopefully get the guts cut tomorrow, lay all the wires and sensors and get them put together on Thursday, attach all the wires and metal plating on Friday, make my control boxes on Saturday, build my two cabinet frames on Sunday, sell my bass and buy the materials for 3 more bars and a bunch of paint for the cabinets on Monday, see about borrowing some money to add the finishing touches (plexiglas for the cabinets, another pair of speakers so I can have 2 per cabinet) and afford to do trivial things like eat on Wednesday, sleep on Thursday, drag the cabs and pads to a convention on Friday, run a series of tournaments on Saturday to market them, take commissions (aiming for at least 10) on Sunday, give away one of the cabinets and all 4 pads as prizes on Monday, then get working on those commissions!

Er. . . pics of progress tomorrow.
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